Old Cookery Books and Ancient CuisineAnnotated edition by William Carew Hazlitt Cookbooks Food Wine eBooks
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THE EARLY ENGLISHMAN AND HIS FOOD.
William of Malmesbury particularly dwells on the broad line of distinction still existing between the southern English and the folk of the more northerly districts in his day, twelve hundred years after the visit of Caesar. He says that they were then (about A.D. 1150) as different as if they had been different races; and so in fact they were—different in their origin, in their language, and their diet.
In his "Folk-lore Relics of Early Village Life," 1883, Mr. Gomme devotes a chapter to "Early Domestic Customs," and quotes Henry's "History of Great Britain" for a highly curious clue to the primitive mode of dressing food, and partaking of it, among the Britons. Among the Anglo-Saxons the choice of poultry and game was fairly wide. Alexander Neckani, in his "Treatise on Utensils (twelfth century)" gives fowls, cocks, peacocks, the cock of the wood (the woodcock, not the capercailzie), thrushes, pheasants, and several more; and pigeons were only too plentiful. The hare and the rabbit were well enough known, and with the leveret form part of an enumeration of wild animals (animalium ferarum) in a pictorial vocabulary of the fifteenth century. But in the very early accounts or lists, although they must have soon been brought into requisition, they are not specifically cited as current dishes. How far this is attributable to the alleged repugnance of the Britons to use the hare for the table, as Caesar apprises us that they kept it only voluptatis causâ, it is hard to say; but the way in which the author of the "Commentaries" puts it induces the persuasion that by lepus he means not the hare, but the rabbit, as the former would scarcely be domesticated.
Neckam gives very minute directions for the preparation of pork for the table. He appears to have considered that broiling on the grill was the best way; the gridiron had supplanted the hot stones or bricks in more fashionable households, and he recommends a brisk fire, perhaps with an eye to the skilful development of the crackling. He died without the happiness of bringing his archi-episcopal nostrils in contact with the sage and onions of wiser generations, and thinks that a little salt is enough. But, as we have before explained, Neckam prescribed for great folks. These refinements were unknown beyond the precincts of the palace and the castle.
In the ancient cookery-book, the "Menagier de Paris," 1393, which offers numerous points of similarity to our native culinary lore, the resources of the cuisine are represented as amplified by receipts for dressing hedgehogs, squirrels, magpies, and jackdaws—small deer, which the English experts did not affect, although I believe that the hedgehog is frequently used to this day by country folk, both here and abroad, and in India. It has white, rabbit-like flesh.
In an eleventh century vocabulary we meet with a tolerably rich variety of fish, of which the consumption was relatively larger in former times. The Saxons fished both with the basket and the net. Among the fish here enumerated are the whale (which was largely used for food), the dolphin, porpoise, crab, oyster, herring, cockle, smelt, and eel. But in the supplement to Alfric's vocabulary, and in another belonging to the same epoch, there are important additions to this list the salmon, the trout, the lobster, the bleak, with the whelk and other shell-fish. But we do not notice the turbot, sole, and many other varieties, which became familiar in the next generation or so. The turbot and sole are indeed included in the "Treatise on Utensils" of Neckam, as are likewise the lamprey (of which King John is said to have been very fond), bleak, gudgeon, conger, plaice, limpet, ray, and mackerel.
The fifteenth century, if I may judge from a vocabulary of that date in Wright's collection, acquired a much larger choice of fish, and some of the names approximate more nearly to those in modern use. We meet with the sturgeon, the whi
Old Cookery Books and Ancient CuisineAnnotated edition by William Carew Hazlitt Cookbooks Food Wine eBooks
If you have any interest in reading about how people used to eat and cook, then it's a very nice easy read that will amuse and also provide insight on the growth of food preparation when you compare the ingredients and techniques to how you cook today.Product details
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Old Cookery Books and Ancient CuisineAnnotated edition by William Carew Hazlitt Cookbooks Food Wine eBooks Reviews
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Serious, Guys its a cookbook.
We've come a long way baby. Fascinating if you are into in. I was for a bit, and I need a few more words here so the submit button will work. ;)
This book was written in 1906, It has recipes (spelled receipt in the book) from the 1600s I found it fascinating.
If you got this book thinking it might give you lots of recipes from history then you will be disappointed. It is more a commentary by the author on their view of food through the ages. There are recipes but unfortunately I had to keep going to a dictionary to find out what half the ingredients were. There should have been the list of ingredients and then the modern equivalent - this would have made it a lot more interesting. I was hoping to get recipes to try and see if I could replicate them but as a lot of items are not available or I have no idea what the equivalent is I was disappointed. It did get a bit monotonous having to wade through various lists of cookbooks the author had read on the era, were they really necessary? I would have thought they could have been listed at the end of the book for anyone who wanted to find the author's reference for themselves.
I was hoping to also see recipes but the information on old cookery books was interesting. If you are a cookbook addict like I am, you are going to enjoy this.
Delightfully droll, endlessly entertaining. A broad overview of why the English eat what they do.
If you have any interest in reading about how people used to eat and cook, then it's a very nice easy read that will amuse and also provide insight on the growth of food preparation when you compare the ingredients and techniques to how you cook today.
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